Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa

Located on the westerly end of the Samoan Archipelago, Samoa is halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand. Its natural wonders include waterfalls, mountains, volcanoes and miles of beaches. The islands have a living culture, fa'a Samoa, (the Samoan Way), that centres around the family unit and love and respect for all.

The Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson brought his family to live on Upolu in 1890 and built a large home in the foothills above Apia, where he spent the last five years of his life. Stevenson was affectionately known as 'Tusitala', the storyteller, and he is buried on the crest of Mt Vaea. His home and tomb within the Robert Louis Stevenson Memorial Reserve can still be seen today.

Capital & Major Centres
Although Savaii is the largest island of the Samoan archipelago, the capital, Apia, is on the more populated island of Upolu, which is also the seat of government and centre of commerce. Savaii is considerably less developed than Upolu, dotted with secluded beaches and crowned in the centre by the 1858 metre Mt Silisili.

The People
Samoans are the largest group of full-blooded Polynesians in the world and have retained much of their ancient culture. Traditional tattooing is an intricate art of Samoa and young Samoan males and females are tattooed with complex symbolic designs, from the lower chest to the knees. Samoan is the native language, however English is widely spoken.

History
These islands were first settled about 3000 years ago and are accepted as the heart of the Polynesian culture. In 1768, French navigator Louis de Bougainville sighted Samoa and called them 'The Navigator Islands', because of the many Samoans sailing small canoes far from the sight of land.

During the 18th century vast plantations producing copra and cotton were developed for export and Apia became a major commercial centre in the South Pacific. Annexed by Germany from 1899 to 1914, and then New Zealand from 1914 until 1962, when Western Samoa finally gained self govern-ment. The 'Western' was dropped from its name in 1997.

Nature
Beautiful fauna and flora are found on both islands. Savaii, in particular, has lush tropical rainforests housing many exotic bird species. Conservation organisations in Sweden and the US have provided funding to ensure the rainforests at Tafua and Falealupo on Savaii are conserved.

The Sights
You can visit Robert Louis Stevenson's home in Apia, now a magnificent museum, the Tiavi Falls, the O Le Pupu Pu'e National Park and Papaseea with its smooth rocks with pools beneath which are fun to slide down and swim in. Also worth seeing is Piula Cave pool in the grounds of the Methodist Theological College. It's an oval-shaped natural pool filled with cool spring water flowing from a cave beneath the church.

Where to Stay
Accommodation ranges from international standard to traditional fales (bungalows), some of which offer cooking facilities and private facilities. Villagers will negotiate private rates and home accommodation for budget travellers.

Getting Around
The two islands have more than 1800 kilometres of road between them. In Apia there are taxis and rental cars available. Discovery Rentals has a wide range of vehicles and also offers a free pick up and delivery service to most hotels.

A major change is taking place to the traffic network in 2009, with vehicles swapping from driving on the right hand side of the road to the left. The changeover is expected to take place in September. Polynesian Airlines' internal service operates flights between Apia and Savaii: the trip takes a few minutes by plane or one hour by boat.

Food & Entertainment
The main hotels have dining rooms and Samoan feasts or 'Fiafia Nights' are held at these hotels on a weekly basis. Entertainment includes traditional Polynesian singing and dancing. There are also several bars, clubs, and cocktail bars, and at the Hotel Kitano, Tusitala and Aggie Grey's Hotel visitors can experience 'Fiafia' nights or traditional floor shows during the week. For a delicious range of seafood, head to Swashbucklers restaurant at the Apia Yacht Club. Established in 1932, the restaurant offers great views of Apia harbour from its outdoor decking. It is advisable to boil drinking water or buy bottled water available in stores throughout both islands.

Activities
Sporting facilities are mainly concentrated in Apia. They include the Apia Park Stadium, the Royal Samoa Golf Country Club, and Faleata Gold Course, public tennis courts, squash, a fitness centre, lawn bowls, hockey, netball, rugby, soccer, and Samoan cricket. Apia hosted the South Pacific Games in 2007 and the newly-built aquatic centre and gymnasiums at Tuanaimato sports complex are some of the world-class facilities starting to attract international sporting events. There are also numerous marine activities including swimming, snorkelling and diving.

Shopping Guide
A wide variety of goods made by Samoan families for their personal use are also sold to visitors because of the beauty and quality of the craftsmanship. Siapo (tapa) cloth made from the mulberry bark and painted with native dyes is made into mats, hats and baskets. Kava and food bowls are hand carved from native hardwood. Shell jewellery and printed fabrics are also available. Shopping hours are from 8am to noon and 1.30pm to 4.30pm weekdays and 8am to 12.30pm on Saturday.