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Guide to Vietnam

Stretching 1600 kilometres along the eastern coast of the Indochinese peninsula on the South China Sea, Vietnam is bordered by China to the north, and Cambodia and Laos to the west. Vietnam has incredible scenic beauty, featuring two main cultivated areas of the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south. It is made up of equatorial lowlands, high, temperate plateaus and alpine peaks.

Capital and major centres
The capital, Hanoi, is the political and cultural centre of Vietnam, a city of shaded boulevards, charming French colonial houses, parks and lakes. However, Ho Chi Minh City is the country's largest population centre. Known also as Saigon, it was the capital of South Vietnam from 1956 to 1975, and remains a bustling, dynamic city. Haiphong is Vietnam's third most populated city, the north's main industrial centre and a major sea port, while Da Nang, promoted as the gateway to Indochina, is Vietnam's fourth largest city. In addition, Can Tho, a city in the Mekong Delta area, has been recently recognised as another major city. Arguably the most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hué, not far from Da Nang, was the country's capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre. Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands, while Kontum is the major centre of the Central Highlands.

The people
Vietnam is one of the world's most populous countries. The population is 84 percent ethnic Vietnamese (who inhabit the plains), two percent ethnic Chinese with the rest made up of Khmers, Chams, and highland Montagnards – over 50 ethnic groups in total. The four great philosophies and religions of Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity have all served to shape the rich spiritual life of Vietnam. A fascinating indigenous religion, Caodaism, attempts to create the ideal religion through a fusion of these four, as well as Hinduism, native Vietnamese spiritism and Islam. The people speak Vietnamese, north and south differing slightly from each other, Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian.

Nature
Vietnam is lush and tropical with much jungle, and vegetation ranging from the green Mekong Delta to forests containing an estimated 12 000 plant species. The climate ensures that even the gardens in the cities are green and full of gladioli, hibiscus and bougainvillea. The country's wild fauna is enormously diverse, including the elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, black bear, various monkeys, birds and reptiles. Ho Chi Minh City's zoo and botanic gardens are a delightful place for a stroll, as are the charming tree-lined avenues in Cong Vien Van Hoa Park.

One of Vietnam's natural treasures, Halong Bay, has emerald waters scattered with 3000 vegetation-covered limestone islands. Beaches, caves and grottoes are the work of centuries of wind and rain erosion. Vietnam has five national parks: Cat Ba (the designated national park on half of Cat Ba Island), Ba Be Lake and Cuc Phuong national parks in the north; Bach Ma National Park in the centre (a World Wildlife Fund-sponsored natural park with a 19th century French hill station); and Nam Cat Tien National Park in the south. Recently another national park has been added, to become the fifth UNESCO recognised site in Vietnam – Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park. Here the primitive tropical forest houses a diverse range of animals and the mountains are ideal for climbing and exploration. The park is also home to archeological and historical relics.

The sights
The other four UNESCO recognised sites are Halong Bay, the imperial city of Hué, the ancient quarter of Hoi An and the My Son historical site. Halong Bay is one of the country's natural marvels, its lime rock mountain islands rising from the waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. Situated 164 kilometres by road from Hanoi, a boat trip around the bay is mandatory.

The splendid city of Hué was Vietnam's political capital from 1802 to 1945, under the 13 emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty. Its incredible citadel has a perimeter of 10 kilometres, and inside is the Forbidden Purple City, reserved for the private life of the emperor. Nam Giao (Temple of Heaven) was once the most important religious site in Vietnam, and the tombs of the emperors and several notable pagodas are other attractions. Hoa Binh, 76 kilometres west of Hanoi, is popular with packaged tours, and offers wonderful mountain views. However, visitors will have to travel 50 kilometres to the west to see how the Montagnards really live.

Outside Ho Chi Minh City is Tay Ninh town, which serves as the headquarters of Caodaism. The Caodai Temple, like all Caodai temples, observes four daily ceremonies, held at 6am, noon, 6pm and midnight. Northeast of Ho Chi Minh, the city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region, renowned for its cool climate and beautiful mountain scenery.

A village worth a visit is Dran on the road to Phan Rang. It is said to have relics of the Cham Kingdom in the form of a gold crown, a silk coat and other valuables. The most notable Cham towers can be seen at My Son, 60 kilometres south-west of Da Nang where the 10th century shrine of Bhadresvara was once the spiritual centre of the Chams.

Hanoi is home to a lovely landscape of shaded boulevards, parks and lakes such as Hoan Kiem Lake; it has beautiful architectural treasures such as the 1500 year old Ambassadors' Pagoda, the official centre of Buddhism in Hanoi, colonial French homes and modern skyscrapers. It is a unique fusion of old and new, with temples, monuments, bustling markets, thriving nightlife and cafés.

Where to stay
Vietnam's hotels represent excellent value. Accommodation ranges from international-standard luxury resorts to budget hotels at Halong Bay, and other tourist centres such as Hai Phong Do Son sea resort in the north and at Hué, Da Nang, Nha Trang, Dalat and Vung Tau in central and southern areas, and at Can Tho, My Tho and Bien Tre in the Mekong Delta.

Getting around
Three major airports serve the three tourism zones: Ho Chi Minh City serves the Mekong; Da Nang serves Hué, Hoi An and My Son; and Hanoi provides access to Halong Bay. Travel between the three gateway cities is possible by air, train and bus. Overnight sleeper busses are cheap and relatively comfortable for the price, and are popular amoungst travellers. Chartering a minibus or hiring a car and driver are other alternatives. Taxis operate in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and other big cities (some metered, some not). Visitors can hire comfortable cyclos (pedicabs) to get around the city, make sure you agree on a fare before hand. Another popular way to get around is by motorbike, this is the way most locals travel, and it is an exilherating experience.

Food and entertainment
One of the delights of spending time in Vietnam is sampling its amazing cuisine. There are said to be nearly 500 traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats of bat and cobra, to more popular meats, fish, vegetables, spices and sauces. Pho is the noodle soup eaten at any time of day, and 'com' means 'rice dish'. The French influence resounds with the Vietnamese known for baking the best baguettes in South-East Asia. Because Buddhist monks of the Mahay-ana tradition are strict vegetarians, many dishes contain tofu, mushrooms and raw, cooked and fermented vegetables. While Vietnamese desserts such as pastry with sticky rice and beans tend to be a little sweet for foreign palates, the fruits will amaze: try green dragon fruit, jujube, longan, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is delightful, and a must to try, its served with milk, or with condensed milk for those with a sweet tooth.

In Ho Chi Minh City, entertainment is found at discos, hotel nightclubs and bars with singers and bands, while the more austere Hanoi has small cafés where locals listen to Western music. A few dance halls offer dancing and karaoke. Bars and cafes are popular throughout the country. For a local experience, enjoy a 'Beer Hoi' at a road side bar, it's cheap and refreshing, and a great way to meet the locals.

Shopping
Vietnam is known for its handicrafts, including lacquerware, carved tortoiseshell, mother-of-pearl inlay, ceramics, bamboo products, jewellery, silk goods, paintings and mats. In Hanoi, two popular areas are Hang Gai Street and Hang Bong Street which have embroidered tablecloths and hangings, greeting cards with traditional hand-painted silk covers, water puppets, clothing and antiques. In Ho Chi Minh City, Ben Thanh Market is a good place for shopping, but watch for pick-pockets. Dong Khoi Street is an arts and crafts tourist bazaar.

Climate
Vietnam has three climatic zones with temperatures ranging from 22°C to 27°C. In the north there are four definite seasons and the best time to visit is between October and March. Central Vietnam is protected by the Hai Van Pass Mountains and travelling is recommended year-round. In the south there are two seasons – dry and rainy. March, April and May are the hottest months. Lightweight clothing is sufficient for the south year round. Warmer clothing is needed during winter (November through April) in the north and in the highlands. Winters in Hanoi need fairly heavy, warm clothing as does the Hoa Binh mountain resort.

Currency
The currency is the Vietnamese dong. The US dollar acts as a second currency and is readily accepted. Tipping is not expected but appreciated. Bargaining is common on everything.



Vietnam FAQs

1. How do I get to my hotel from the airport?
If you have pre-booked your accommodation, enquire as to whether your hotel or resort offers a door-to-door airport transfer service. Otherwise, there is an abundance of transport options available. Tan Son Nhat International Airport in Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam's main airport and is located 7km (4.5 miles) from Ho Chi Minh City. Metered taxis are your best option, with a journey time of approximately 20 to 30 minutes into the city. Hanoi's Noi Bai International Airport is 35km north of Hanoi. Buses and metered taxis are available to Hanoi, and take around 45 to 60 minutes.

2. Where do I exchange my money while I'm on holiday?
You can exchange your money at the airport before leaving, or at banks and official changers in Vietnam. Most major currencies can be exchanged at major banks in Vietnam.

Direct payment of cash is most popular in Vietnam as most small shops; restaurants and markets usually accept cash only. Major credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard and to some extent American Express can be used in larger restaurants, hotels and shopping malls, especially in big cities and tourist-populated areas. Traveler's cheques can be cashed at major banks- excluding small banks in small towns.

ATM machines
For those hesitant to carry a large amount of cash around, ATMs have become increasingly popular in Vietnam- mostly in cities. Many have a single withdrawal limit, however you are able to make multiple withdrawals until you hit your own daily account limit. Large cash advances can be arranged over the counter.

Traveller's Cheques
You should not rely solely on traveller's cheques, as they can only be exchanged at authorized foreign-exchange banks, which aren't so prevalent. Traveller's cheques in currencies other than US dollars may be useless outside the major cities. Hefty commissions will likely apply if they can be exchanged at all.

Please note: avoid exchanging your money on the black market, which operates quite openly. Usually black market exchange rates are actually worse than official exchange rates, but you pay for the convenience of changing them on the spot. If you are approached on the street by someone offering better exchange rates than the official rate, you can be assured you are being set up, most likely with fake notes. Most land border crossings have an official currency exchange service, typically offering the best rates available in remote parts of the Vietnam.

3. What do I need to pack for my trip?
Documents and money
Before entering Vietnam, you must check the Visa requirements prior to entering the country. Make sure you photocopy all travel documents, and keep safe and separate from your passport, credit cards, traveller's cheques etc. A 'money belt' is recommended, as is a padlock for your suitcase.
Toiletries.
It's advised you bring your own with you if you use specific brands etc. However you can purchase everyday toiletries such as sunscreen, deodorant, soap, shampoo, mosquito repellant etc in Vietnam.

Clothing
Vietnam is largely tropical, so it's hot and humid all year round with temperatures within the 20-35 degrees Celsius range. Bringing three to four sets of clothing is sufficient, as laundry services are both prevalent and inexpensive. Due to the heat, lightweight cotton is recommended, as is a hat to provide protection from the sun. It's recommended you buy a large part of your wardrobe when you arrive in Vietnam, as the country is famed for its abundance of tailors and cheap clothes. You will need to pack comfortable walking shoes, as well as sandals, as larger sized footwear is hard to find in Vietnam.

Please note: to respect Vietnamese custom, clothing is best kept informal and discreet. Footwear should always be removed when entering Buddhist pagodas.

Medications
It's advised you bring any necessary prescription and non-prescription medication with you, along with a letter from your doctor for customs purposes.

Other useful items
Power converter/ adapter
Reading material
First aid kit
Sleeping bag
Lightweight raincoat (if travelling during the rainy season)
Sealable plastic bags (for damp clothes, toiletries, food etc)